Fishing News: Fly Fishing, the Best Tips!

The reproduction of the trout requires special conditions. Fishing outside the authorized dates implies a new element of alteration: the death of reproducers and the medium-term loss of one of the region's most attractive tourist attractions.
We emphasized that we had previously discussed exotic species. The law protects the native fauna in all cases.
The fishing methods range from spinning, which involves using a teaspoon to catch fish from the coast, to trolling, which involves using a fly to catch fish. Each modality's locations can be consulted at the fishing regulations or tourist information bureaus. To purchase equipment, there is a specialized and well-diversified market available. One piece of advice is to always seek the services of a professional fishing guide. There are many excellent fishing guides available and they are the best choice to ensure an unforgettable day.
1. Use a double-tapered line for your dry line fishing. Many shops and instructors like to have a new caster use the weight forward dry line because it gives the illusion of greater distance and power than a double taper line. This is truly an illusion. The weight forward line functions similarly to a shooting head, offering all the advantages and disadvantages associated with it. A given rod will propel a weight forward slightly farther than a double taper, but not significantly. First of all, a double taper feels like a fly line. It has a silky, comfortable feel and has the virtue of demanding a little better technique and understanding of the casting process. A double taper will mend beautifully. When one end wears out, you can reverse it. Using your double-tapered floater, you can effortlessly roll casts up to fifty or seventy feet, depending on the distance between the bushes. A double taper will execute a Speycast just fine with a single-handed fly rod. This is especially useful when you are in close proximity to trees and bushes. If you have ten or fifteen feet behind you, a dynamic roll cast will get you way more than fifty feet into the river or lake. The place you need a weighted forward dry line is tropical surface fishing for bones, tarpon, etc., where you need lots of distance in a hurry.
2. Buy a stiff double-tapered dry line. This is not a commercial site, but you can find high-end lines that are stiffer than the others, and these will make casting much more of a joy. The stiff line shoots through the guides more readily, and it does not tangle like the very flexible ones. 
3. Don't neglect the regular application of line dressing to your dry line. The line accumulates algae and dirt, which causes it to lose its smoothness. Dressing the line not only removes the scum but also lubricates it, enabling it to glide effortlessly through the guides. It also floats higher, which is particularly helpful when you are making that fifty-foot roll cast. 
4. Concentrate on your back cast. A strong, straight back cast makes forecasting or laydowns effortless. It is the backcast that counts. 
5. Practice regularly for short periods. Keep a rod set up in your garage or closet, and whenever you feel like it, step outside for a few minutes to practice. We cut little circles or squares from plastic milk jugs, punch a small hole with an awl, the sharp point on a compass or any such tool, and then cut a slit from the edge to the hole with a jackknife. We pull the tippet through this using the practice fly or yarn fly and leave the rod either fully assembled or half and half with the leader straight. We walk out the door, and Voila! We are fishing. (well, almost) 
6. When you practice something. Always have an objective. You can practice on the sidewalk, across the street, in the parking strip, or anywhere but have an objective. Becoming a journeyman flycaster is like learning a musical instrument, basketball, tennis, or any other skill. One or two points at a time are the focus of practice.
7. Be prepared to backslide on what you know while you are adding to your fly-casting skills. It is a normal learning pattern to make two steps forward and then one step back. 
8. Consider fishing with a fly rod for a blond, brunette, redhead, greyhead, silverhead, or any other head type. Fly casting is not a gender-specific sport. We know couples where the wife casts in tournaments and fishes and the husband goes along to enjoy the camaraderie and the scenery. We know couples where the man is the caster and the woman does the bird watching. 
9. Critique one another. If you have a friend who thinks casting is a worthwhile pursuit, watch each other cast and dissect your strokes. The back cast is the most telling signal of good or bad practice. It tells more about the state of your progress than anything else. 
10. Watch your own backcast from time to time. Some casting works recommend that the caster watches every backcast, while others recommend that the caster never looks at the backcast. Neither of these positions is tenable. Turning your head or body to observe your back cast disturbs the geometry of your arm and shoulder joints, etc., and is not ideal for body mechanics. However, you must understand what is happening behind you to evaluate your cast. Ultimately, you will become so grooved that the friendly little tug of the line will announce that you're on the right track. We have a film of a world champion caster who looks at his backcast in distance events. He does this to ensure that the line is straight and in the best position to receive the strength he will apply in the final forecast.
11. Wait for the friendly little tug of your line on the back cast. In order to feel this tug, you must have a short stroke on the back cast; about 1:00 or 1:30 is fine. The farther back you get, the less you can feel the tug of the back. After 2:00, it is pretty subtle. 
12. For long and powerful roll casts, learn the dynamic roll cast. We teach the basic roll cast in the static mode, which involves drawing the rod back to approximately 1:00 o'clock position, allowing the line to fall, and then propelling the casting stroke forward. The cast works because you have put enough lines behind you to be able to impel it forward. To perform a dynamic roll cast, toss a small loop of the line behind you and initiate the casting stroke while the line is still extending behind you. You doted the full casting stroke—load the rod with hand movement, add the power stroke with mainly wrist movement, and snap the tip. This will drive the line out in a fifty or sixty-foot roll cast. You can snap it high to get the line into the air for a soft dry fly landing, or you can snap it farther forward and make the line roll out on the water for a wet fly presentation or to overcome the wind. It is crucial to initiate the forward casting stroke immediately after the line loops out behind. There are two reasons: Firstly, the line is at its maximum distance behind you, providing you with more space for the loading portion of your stroke. Second, the floating part of the line has reached the surface, leaving little time for it to sink and slow down your cast. I first saw this at a fishing show and was astonished at the power. The space behind determines how much line you can throw. If you have fifteen feet of clearance behind you, you can throw a fifteen-foot belly of line, which is equivalent to thirty feet of line moving forward. This dynamic roll cast blends all the way from the static roll cast with the line hanging straight down from the rod tip two feet behind your ear to a full-blown power roll with not much more than the leader and a little bit of line remaining on the water. The amount of line you throw behind is determined by the available space and the desired distance of the roll cast. The Spey cast, also known as the dynamic roll cast, is a variation of a Spey cast in a straight line. This cast is very useful for fishing and for hitting targets in accuracy games. Try to keep the back toss as close to your body as possible without fouling. It also functions effectively on the off-shoulder. You can get just as much power on the off shoulder when the line is downstream on that side or the wind is blowing from your dominant side. Try it. You'll like it. Warning: It takes practice to get the feel and timing down.
13. If you want to improve your range and distance and are willing to practice, try to do so with a medium-stiff rod. The softer the rod, the easier it is to tail your loop and overpower it. If you focus on loading the rod before initiating the power stroke, the softer rod will discipline your stroke by inducing a severe tailing loop if you load or haul too quickly. When you are out there with your cannon rod, the slower motions imposed by the soft rod will allow you to load the rod nicely before applying the horsepower.
14. Using a softer rod will allow you to develop the skill of postponing the haul until the rod becomes fully loaded. We all have experienced the paradox of doing a long, sleepy sort of cast and being surprised at the way the line flew out there. However, when we attempt to exert more force and make the cast go farther, we often end up with a shorter, less organized cast. A haul started before the rod is bent—loaded—from the inertia of the line will distort a good loading motion by further bending the tip toward the ground, driving the line down, and expending part of the haul in bending the rod rather than moving the line.
15. One effect of a favorable load is a heavy feel to the rod. If the rod feels heavy during the power stroke, you will know that you have both straightened out the line before loading and loaded the rod at the right tempo. This is true on both false casts and back casts. If the rod feels light, you know that you are not adding as many foot-pounds of kinetic energy to the line as you are when the rod feels heavy. The faster the line is moving, the more foot pounds of kinetic energy it has to carry it through the air resistance.